Sideways
August 17
What a difference a rest day makes! I got back on the bike saddle this morning and a few pedal strokes later, I was genuinely happy to be there!!! I rode through a heavy, wet fog for the first few hours before the radiant, relentless sun appeared. The kilometres whizzed by as my morning included racing a train, passing the longitudinal centre of Canada, watching the farm fields fade to forever forests and sourcing some delicious homemade perogies. After lunch, something surprising happened... I crossed the Ontario border, and almost like magic, the road started going up and down and side to side! Shifting gears, leaning into hills and coasting down them - that is what riding a bike is all about - and I freaking love it!!!!! Looking back, riding across the prairies was a lot like riding a stationary bike while watching TV, but that's over now, and I will never complain about hills again! I was absolutely sending it, and my plan to get to Kenora today was completed before dinner, so I added 20 bonus km to make it an absolutely joyful 235 km day. :)
August 18
Some cold oatmeal got me started for the day and I peddled off - up and down hills, around corners - what fun! A fawn even ran alongside me for several hundred metres but a car came upon us before I could get my camera out. As expected, the road shoulders were meh but the traffic was respectful, so no real complaints. Today's 205 kms of scenery was comprised of lots of rocks, and trees and water (shout out to the Arrogant Worms!), with cottages circling numerous lakes, all eventually giving way to some flatter farmland vistas in the afternoon. Since it all seemed so familiar - having grown up in Ontario and visited this area several times - I forgot to take pictures until I was setting up camp by a lake near Fort Frances. I am also happy to remember several great chats at gas stations and little grocery stores along the way. As I think I've mentioned, I often find myself in conversation with all kinds of curious and friendly people, but today's chats were particularly fun. Typically, I roll into a gas station or small country variety store, hop off my bike, refill my water bottles, grab a snack, and sit in whatever shade is outside the store to eat it. People give me funny looks. I smile at them. They smile back. They ask where I'm coming from or going to. I tell them. They make an amusing comment, often saying I'm crazy, (Truth be told, I find "crazy" to be a rather useless and annoying word to describe some other thought they are likely having.) Then, the conversation either dies or it gets interesting. Today, it seemed that all conversations got interesting, which is good, because some days, these little chats are the only conversations I have. One chat was with a Dutch trucker who saw my bike outside the store and came in to find the person who rode it. Turns out he collects old bicycles, was curious about mine and then told me about some of his more unique finds. Another chat was with an American man who just retired and was on only his second vacation ever. He is loving it and is now thinking his third might be on two wheels! A young boy kept staring at me and my bike until his mom encouraged him to ask me some questions. They soon followed, in abundance! An older gentleman who, after piecing together my path to-date, told me that he doesn't respect many young people, told me that he "respects the heck outta me." All these conversations made me smile and continued to echoed around in my head as the day's kilometres rolled by and I made it to a campground in Fort Francis.
August 19
I hit the road too late for how hot it would get, but ohhh wellll. A few kilometres east of Fort Francis I travelled over the Noden Causeway, a 5.6 km long engineering marvel consisting of several long, and some high, bridges connecting at least 5 small islands and spanning the beautiful Rainy River. The Causeway even had rest stops with picnic areas, docks and panoramic views of the area. As the occasional float plane flew overhead, I continued to follow Highway 11 (the TransCanada) through terrain dotted with lakes, marshes, a lot of trees, rock outcrops, cottages and First Nations settlements. I also had time to think and have come to the conclusion that although the communities are relatively small in Northwestern Ontario and the available services are less plentiful than in the south, every time I stop for some reason or another, the conversations begin - seemingly more here than anywhere else. Following on from yesterday's chats, today I happily shared an hour talking to a youth addictions counsellor who had pre-career experiences that, let's just say, would well-qualify him to relate to those he counsels. I also joked with some motorcyclists who insisted on giving me $10 for my dinner. Later in the afternoon, I detoured for a food resupply before making it to Quetico Provincial Park, 195 km after my morning start. I was delighted to arrive in Quetico because it is a wilderness park and I have happy memories of camping here with my parents and canoeing - in a big ol' voyageur canoe made of birch bark, and in our family's more commonly sized and constructed version. As I type, I'm also pretty sure I am setup in the campsite next to the site where my parents and I pitched our tent, beside French Lake, and that makes me smile. Too bad I don't have any S'mores ingredients with me!
August 20
'Woke up, packed up, and put on my riding clothes. Have I mentioned?... My base layers are usually still soggy with yesterday's sweat, and my shirt is always soggy because it does double duty as my towel the evening before - oh the joys! Somehow I don't think they get smellier day to day, just soggier, or dare I say, "more moist" (@briannaaareilly). I passed a road sign today telling me that I entered the Atlantic watershed - so I guess that if I was a raindrop my journey would be all downhill from here. Speaking of raindrops... rain clouds lingered on the horizon for the entire morning, occasionally freeing some drops and sharing them with me. :) The rainbow to all this was a perfectly placed 'chip truck' at the side of the road. I enjoyed a delicious lunch break and a few chill-out moments before continuing on into Thunder Bay where I stopped after logging 160 clicks. In Thunder Bay I was reunited with the Shields - a wonderful family I know who were former cross- country ski coaches and teammates from my Waterloo high school days. We ate a most delicious home cooked dinner and enjoyed catching up - laughing at ski things, bike things and really, just most things in general.
August 21
My morning started with clean clothes and hot oatmeal!!! Andy then escorted me out of town on his bike, along some ideal side roads he had already scouted out as part of his roller-skiing training. Before long, the inevitable happened and I was reunited with my reluctant buddy of late - the Trans-Canada Highway. The Highway and I rolled along together, making good time through the sunshine for a 185 km day. The reason why I joined this partner reluctantly is because in this area, the Trans-Canada Highway shoulder can best be described as really bad to non-existent and the traffic (including trucks) is fairy steady. While my trip research and discussions with cycling friends prepared me to expect this, it doesn't make the actual experience any more fun. It means a few adjustments are needed for riding and it also means that I take a lot fewer pictures. I can't shoot pics while rolling because I need to be more focused on staying on the road than enjoying the scenery. Today, I did note lots of pristine lakes and, after the first real climb I've done in a while, I was rewarded with a marvellous view of Lake Superior! The climb was followed by a joyous, rip roaring descent where the afternoon raindrops stung my face, but I didn't even care because I was finally descending something fun! Another highlight of the day was my 4th accidental reunion of the trip with an old friend and yep, it was in Timmies (in Nipigon). Ryan G said, "Hello!!" He was headed westward by car. Statistically I wonder what the chances of us meeting are but I don't care enough to calculate as I'm on holidays! After a brief chat and a little treat, I then pedalled on to Rainbow Falls Provincial Park where I met a Dutch cyclist who was also exploring Canada by bike. We happily shared a campsite and swapped stories on into the night.
August 22
I interrupt today's daily dribble about another day on the bike to let you know that today I woke up, picked slugs off my clothes and gear and proceeded to find slugs hitching a ride along with me for the rest of the day. While I'm into it, just thought I would highlight some more of 'those moments'... Moments when you crest a hill, the sun comes out, and Free Fallin' comes on my headphones. Moments when a passing car honks in encouragement. Moments when a smile cracks across your face and you realize there is nothing you would rather be doing at the moment (no matter how many slugs are in close proximity). These moments fill me with a rush of energy that can carry me kilometres. I had a few of these moments today, but I also had a lot of rain and almost continuous lack of road shoulder along the Trans-Canada Highway. Under threat from a big, black thundercloud and a friend excited to see me, I turned off the highway after only 111 km and rode into Marathon to visit @veronica.knott!!! We had a great time catching up, eating Chinese food and reminiscing about our good ol' UBC BoG days. Who would have ever guessed that the two of us would end up here!
August 23
Today I am pretty sure I sailed 222 km instead of biking them. I haven't had a tailwind in so long I forgot how magical they are, and today brought that all back! It was a northwest tailwind that was blowing in some rather frigid air but I've got the layers to stay comfortable, even as I watched my breath condense in front of me. I rode through White River, the hometown of the black bear cub that was the real life inspiration for A.A. Milne's Winnie the Pooh, and by the huge, new Canada Goose monument in Wawa! The giant goose was another visited icon of my childhood, and it was fun to ride by as a flock of real Canadian honkers flew overhead. As I was getting dinner I was touched by yet another heart-warming gesture as a man that I had been chatting with in line at a sub shop insisted on buying my meal saying,"You earned it!" Crawling into my sleeping bag beside Rabbit Blanket Lake in Lake Superior Provincial Park, I recalled an all in all, wonderful day.
August 24
Today's combination of multi-directional wind gusts and fun shoreline terrain helped today's 195 km roll by quite easily. I had a relaxed day stopping to enjoy scenic vistas, eat snacks and wait for highway construction flaggers. The landscape is is the prime habitat of my favourite tree - the eastern white pine - and I thoroughly enjoyed the sight of hundreds of them along the highway. This evening, I rolled into Sault Ste. Marie, marking the end of my journey around Lake Superior. It also afforded me the opportunity to overnight at the fabled bike shop #velorution_bike_ski, featuring free cyclist camping and shower facilities, plus the anticipated company of fellow enthusiasts for the evening.
North of Superior
August 17 - 24 : North of Superior
August 17
What a difference a rest day makes! I got back on the bike saddle this morning and a few pedal strokes later, I was genuinely happy to be there!!! I rode through a heavy, wet fog for the first few hours before the radiant, relentless sun appeared. The kilometres whizzed by as my morning included racing a train, passing the longitudinal centre of Canada, watching the farm fields fade to forever forests and sourcing some delicious homemade perogies. After lunch, something surprising happened... I crossed the Ontario border, and almost like magic, the road started going up and down and side to side! Shifting gears, leaning into hills and coasting down them - that is what riding a bike is all about - and I freaking love it!!!!! Looking back, riding across the prairies was a lot like riding a stationary bike while watching TV, but that's over now, and I will never complain about hills again! I was absolutely sending it, and my plan to get to Kenora today was completed before dinner, so I added 20 bonus km to make it an absolutely joyful 235 km day. :)
August 18
Some cold oatmeal got me started for the day and I peddled off - up and down hills, around corners - what fun! A fawn even ran alongside me for several hundred metres but a car came upon us before I could get my camera out. As expected, the road shoulders were meh but the traffic was respectful, so no real complaints. Today's 205 kms of scenery was comprised of lots of rocks, and trees and water (shout out to the Arrogant Worms!), with cottages circling numerous lakes, all eventually giving way to some flatter farmland vistas in the afternoon. Since it all seemed so familiar - having grown up in Ontario and visited this area several times - I forgot to take pictures until I was setting up camp by a lake near Fort Frances. I am also happy to remember several great chats at gas stations and little grocery stores along the way. As I think I've mentioned, I often find myself in conversation with all kinds of curious and friendly people, but today's chats were particularly fun. Typically, I roll into a gas station or small country variety store, hop off my bike, refill my water bottles, grab a snack, and sit in whatever shade is outside the store to eat it. People give me funny looks. I smile at them. They smile back. They ask where I'm coming from or going to. I tell them. They make an amusing comment, often saying I'm crazy, (Truth be told, I find "crazy" to be a rather useless and annoying word to describe some other thought they are likely having.) Then, the conversation either dies or it gets interesting. Today, it seemed that all conversations got interesting, which is good, because some days, these little chats are the only conversations I have. One chat was with a Dutch trucker who saw my bike outside the store and came in to find the person who rode it. Turns out he collects old bicycles, was curious about mine and then told me about some of his more unique finds. Another chat was with an American man who just retired and was on only his second vacation ever. He is loving it and is now thinking his third might be on two wheels! A young boy kept staring at me and my bike until his mom encouraged him to ask me some questions. They soon followed, in abundance! An older gentleman who, after piecing together my path to-date, told me that he doesn't respect many young people, told me that he "respects the heck outta me." All these conversations made me smile and continued to echoed around in my head as the day's kilometres rolled by and I made it to a campground in Fort Francis.
August 19
I hit the road too late for how hot it would get, but ohhh wellll. A few kilometres east of Fort Francis I travelled over the Noden Causeway, a 5.6 km long engineering marvel consisting of several long, and some high, bridges connecting at least 5 small islands and spanning the beautiful Rainy River. The Causeway even had rest stops with picnic areas, docks and panoramic views of the area. As the occasional float plane flew overhead, I continued to follow Highway 11 (the TransCanada) through terrain dotted with lakes, marshes, a lot of trees, rock outcrops, cottages and First Nations settlements. I also had time to think and have come to the conclusion that although the communities are relatively small in Northwestern Ontario and the available services are less plentiful than in the south, every time I stop for some reason or another, the conversations begin - seemingly more here than anywhere else. Following on from yesterday's chats, today I happily shared an hour talking to a youth addictions counsellor who had pre-career experiences that, let's just say, would well-qualify him to relate to those he counsels. I also joked with some motorcyclists who insisted on giving me $10 for my dinner. Later in the afternoon, I detoured for a food resupply before making it to Quetico Provincial Park, 195 km after my morning start. I was delighted to arrive in Quetico because it is a wilderness park and I have happy memories of camping here with my parents and canoeing - in a big ol' voyageur canoe made of birch bark, and in our family's more commonly sized and constructed version. As I type, I'm also pretty sure I am setup in the campsite next to the site where my parents and I pitched our tent, beside French Lake, and that makes me smile. Too bad I don't have any S'mores ingredients with me!
August 20
'Woke up, packed up, and put on my riding clothes. Have I mentioned?... My base layers are usually still soggy with yesterday's sweat, and my shirt is always soggy because it does double duty as my towel the evening before - oh the joys! Somehow I don't think they get smellier day to day, just soggier, or dare I say, "more moist" (@briannaaareilly). I passed a road sign today telling me that I entered the Atlantic watershed - so I guess that if I was a raindrop my journey would be all downhill from here. Speaking of raindrops... rain clouds lingered on the horizon for the entire morning, occasionally freeing some drops and sharing them with me. :) The rainbow to all this was a perfectly placed 'chip truck' at the side of the road. I enjoyed a delicious lunch break and a few chill-out moments before continuing on into Thunder Bay where I stopped after logging 160 clicks. In Thunder Bay I was reunited with the Shields - a wonderful family I know who were former cross- country ski coaches and teammates from my Waterloo high school days. We ate a most delicious home cooked dinner and enjoyed catching up - laughing at ski things, bike things and really, just most things in general.
August 21
My morning started with clean clothes and hot oatmeal!!! Andy then escorted me out of town on his bike, along some ideal side roads he had already scouted out as part of his roller-skiing training. Before long, the inevitable happened and I was reunited with my reluctant buddy of late - the Trans-Canada Highway. The Highway and I rolled along together, making good time through the sunshine for a 185 km day. The reason why I joined this partner reluctantly is because in this area, the Trans-Canada Highway shoulder can best be described as really bad to non-existent and the traffic (including trucks) is fairy steady. While my trip research and discussions with cycling friends prepared me to expect this, it doesn't make the actual experience any more fun. It means a few adjustments are needed for riding and it also means that I take a lot fewer pictures. I can't shoot pics while rolling because I need to be more focused on staying on the road than enjoying the scenery. Today, I did note lots of pristine lakes and, after the first real climb I've done in a while, I was rewarded with a marvellous view of Lake Superior! The climb was followed by a joyous, rip roaring descent where the afternoon raindrops stung my face, but I didn't even care because I was finally descending something fun! Another highlight of the day was my 4th accidental reunion of the trip with an old friend and yep, it was in Timmies (in Nipigon). Ryan G said, "Hello!!" He was headed westward by car. Statistically I wonder what the chances of us meeting are but I don't care enough to calculate as I'm on holidays! After a brief chat and a little treat, I then pedalled on to Rainbow Falls Provincial Park where I met a Dutch cyclist who was also exploring Canada by bike. We happily shared a campsite and swapped stories on into the night.
August 22
I interrupt today's daily dribble about another day on the bike to let you know that today I woke up, picked slugs off my clothes and gear and proceeded to find slugs hitching a ride along with me for the rest of the day. While I'm into it, just thought I would highlight some more of 'those moments'... Moments when you crest a hill, the sun comes out, and Free Fallin' comes on my headphones. Moments when a passing car honks in encouragement. Moments when a smile cracks across your face and you realize there is nothing you would rather be doing at the moment (no matter how many slugs are in close proximity). These moments fill me with a rush of energy that can carry me kilometres. I had a few of these moments today, but I also had a lot of rain and almost continuous lack of road shoulder along the Trans-Canada Highway. Under threat from a big, black thundercloud and a friend excited to see me, I turned off the highway after only 111 km and rode into Marathon to visit @veronica.knott!!! We had a great time catching up, eating Chinese food and reminiscing about our good ol' UBC BoG days. Who would have ever guessed that the two of us would end up here!
August 23
Today I am pretty sure I sailed 222 km instead of biking them. I haven't had a tailwind in so long I forgot how magical they are, and today brought that all back! It was a northwest tailwind that was blowing in some rather frigid air but I've got the layers to stay comfortable, even as I watched my breath condense in front of me. I rode through White River, the hometown of the black bear cub that was the real life inspiration for A.A. Milne's Winnie the Pooh, and by the huge, new Canada Goose monument in Wawa! The giant goose was another visited icon of my childhood, and it was fun to ride by as a flock of real Canadian honkers flew overhead. As I was getting dinner I was touched by yet another heart-warming gesture as a man that I had been chatting with in line at a sub shop insisted on buying my meal saying,"You earned it!" Crawling into my sleeping bag beside Rabbit Blanket Lake in Lake Superior Provincial Park, I recalled an all in all, wonderful day.
August 24
Today's combination of multi-directional wind gusts and fun shoreline terrain helped today's 195 km roll by quite easily. I had a relaxed day stopping to enjoy scenic vistas, eat snacks and wait for highway construction flaggers. The landscape is is the prime habitat of my favourite tree - the eastern white pine - and I thoroughly enjoyed the sight of hundreds of them along the highway. This evening, I rolled into Sault Ste. Marie, marking the end of my journey around Lake Superior. It also afforded me the opportunity to overnight at the fabled bike shop #velorution_bike_ski, featuring free cyclist camping and shower facilities, plus the anticipated company of fellow enthusiasts for the evening.
0 comments:
Post a Comment